Moisturizing Mousse
Here is my little Extra for Experts (or nosy, like me haha).
Peony Hydrosol, obviously. I don't know if you’ve noticed, but we’re all about the peony here - and why wouldn’t we be! Peonies are full of compounds that are great for your skin. Our hydrosol has so many of the amazing properties in it, we have a whole blog dedicated to how cool we think peony hydrosol is, so if you want more info, you should definitely check that out [link here]. But these are my top 5, and the reasons why using it for skincare just made sense
- moisturising - it contains compounds that both attract moisture from the air around you, and help lock it into your skin.
- anti-inflammatory properties can reduce swelling, redness, and itchiness (very helpful if you suffer from eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, or skin irritation in general)
- healing compounds can reduce the time it takes to heal minor cuts and bruises, as well as speed up the fading process of scars and stretch marks
- It is a mild antizyolitic, which means anti-anxiety: isn’t that cool?!
- Interacts with the olfactory system (fancy word for your sense of smell) and increases dopamine and serotonin production. These are also known as the happiness neurotransmitters!
Now, emulsified creams and lotion are mostly made from water, with most recipes recommending distilled water, but why not use hydrosol and benefit from all the extra goodies held within it.
BTMS50: simply put, this has both a functional and structural role in the mousse. It’s full scientific name is behentrimonium methosulfate, which sounds long and complicated and a bit intimidating, but really it's just a compound derived from rapeseed oil (also known as Colza). BTMS is an emulsifying wax that is typically used to make creams, lotions, scrubs, moisturisers, but most commonly hair conditioners (I have a list of products I want to make with this so long it’s not even funny anymore). It is what holds together the water components (i.e. the hydrosol) and the oil components - oil and water, famously, don't mix well, so they need a lil‘ something extra to help them get along. In addition, it is highly moisturising and leaves the skin feeling silky and smooth after application. This sounds like exactly the feeling I wanted my moisturiser to have, so I had to use this.
Polywax: Again, a structural purpose here that comes with some functional benefits. Polywax is another emulsifier. It is incredibly versatile, similar to the BTMS, and is known for producing emulsions with great stability and texture. It also aids in the forming of ‘water crystals’ within the emulsion - this essentially means that it supports a slow release, increased duration for both moisturisation factors and any nutrients contained in the active botanical ingredients. Bonus, am I right? One more key benefit for me is that it is also stable texturally across a very wide range of temperatures. One of my grievances with the Body Butter is that it can get very very melt-y in summer when it's hot - even in winter, if left in the sun for any length of time, it will begin to melt. Using the polywax fixes this issue.
Hemp seed oil: this is like a skincare superfood! It has so many benefits it would be ridiculous to list them all here. These are the ones that factored most into my decision to include it in this product. It's a fantastic all-rounder - it's super moisturizing without feeling greasy or clogging your pores. This means that it is great for all skin types, even oily or acne-prone skin. It's also brilliant at calming irritated or inflamed skin (think eczema, psoriasis, or just general redness) thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties. Beyond that, it helps balance your skin's oil production - whether you're too oily or too dry. It provides anti-aging benefits by fighting off damage and improving skin elasticity, and it really strengthens your skin's natural barrier. Plus, it can even help with healing and repair for minor skin issues and scars, all while delivering a good dose of essential nutrients for healthy skin. The properties play off and compliment the strengths of the peony hydrosol, and for this reason, I like to use it in a lot of our products.
Jojoba Oil: Jojoba oil is fantastic because it mimics your skin's natural oils (sebum), which helps to balance oil production for both oily and dry skin types. It's an excellent moisturiser that hydrates deeply without feeling greasy and, crucially, it's non-comedogenic, meaning it won't clog your pores. It's both a humectant and emollient, meaning that it draws in moisture from the air while also softening the skin and creating a protective barrier. Beyond hydration, it has anti-inflammatory properties to soothe irritated skin (like eczema or redness), offers antioxidant protection against environmental damage, and even has antibacterial and antifungal qualities. It's also gentle, hypoallergenic, and can aid in skin healing and repair. This is the first time I have used Jojoba oil, and I definitely plan on using it again - it's lovely! Although I have discovered that when its cold it solidifies a bit, which is a fun challenge to overcome when it comes to making this during winter.
Vitamin E and Geogard ECT: these are both naturally derived preservatives, and vitamin E especially contains many benefits for your skin.
Fragrance: to be honest, I dithered a lot on this part. I personally love scented moisturisers and lotions, but they can sometimes be an issue for sensitive skin. Some essential oils can irritate your skin, particularly around the eyes and on the delicate skin around the eyes. I wanted this product to be used for an all over moisturiser, something great for your face as well as everywhere else. In the end I decided to make a small unscented batch and I played with an essential oil blend (just one that I liked for the smell, although there were nutritional benefits for your skin there too. I tend to favour earthy, woody scents, and fruity, spicy scents as well. Weirdly, I’m not all that into floral scents generally speaking - or more accurately, I’m picky). I had my circle of product testers try both, and gathered their feedback.